The silver mining city of Potosi, Bolivia

Having been pleasantly surprised by the lovely picturesque city Sucre, Ann-Katrin, Annie and I made our way to Potosi - a place that had come highly recommended from a few travellers we had met along the way, who had told us that the working silver mines in the mountain were somthing not to be missed but not really for the faint hearted. We were reluctant to take a bus there due to our previous encounter, so opted for a taxi cab that got us there quicker and cheap enough. The only other passenger we had to put up with on this one was a nice history teacher from the university in Sucre who was intrigued to hear about our experience and perception of his country.

On arriving in Potosi, the first impressions were of a bit of a ranshackled old town, not as plush and scenic as Sucre, a little browner and very hilly (having been placed on the side of a mountain to support the silver mining industry). However, As with many of the other cities we´d been to, the centre was quite nice and included some quite charming colonial churches and buildings that gave a hint to the original charm that the city would have shown it´s visitors. We had on this occasion not booked ahead for hostels, so ended up doing a little walking and asking around for a place to stay. This was done whilst carrying all of our backpacks and with a wild dog following me and becoming enraged for a piece (or all of) the doggy bag of meat that we had brought with us from lunch at Sucre. That was an interesting experience considering I have not had my rabies jabs!

We found somewhere nice though and booked a room and our tour of the silver mines for the next day. Then we went to find somwhere to eat in the torrential rain that had started and ssoon found a little restaurant, which seemed to be the only place in central Potosi that was open. I was however very pleased that I goot to try a llama steak for the first time. It was a similar texture to beef but more tender and definitely had a distint flavour - very tasty! Due too the rain, we then decided to use the hostels "cinema" (flat screen tv room) and watched the "Butterfly Effect" to wind down the evening. 

Ann-Katrin and I were up and ready for the silver mine early the next day. Annie had decided she would not go for this one due to Potosi´s high altitude again affecting her (4100m above sea level) and the mixed reviews we´d heard about how harsh it was inside. After being kitted out in mining helmets, overalls and head lamps, we were taken by the minibus first to go and get some gifts for the miners that we were going to meet who were going about their daily jobs. We were asked to buy them a combination of coca leaves, which they chew on all day for the working at altitude, cigarettes for them to wind down, dynamite for them to blast through the rock, and orange juice.....for a drink! None of us went for the dynamite (i can hear your moans of dissapointment!) - personally because the Lonely Planet gave a nudge against it, and also because I pictured a big rock flying across the mine and implanting itself into the middle of my face. But we took the rest. Having waited out side the tiny black hole into the mine for 15 minutes, we went in in a group of 5. Straight away the harsh atmosphere was felt as you walk into this little hole supported by old wooden beams and walk in a hunched position through the mine. As we walked further in to the mine it got hotter and harder to breathe even from the reasonably little exercise we were doing. But as our guide walked us round the dark passageways and chasms we got chances to stop, wipe the sweat away from our brows and to get our breathe back. Things were a little more uncomfortable once we had to start climbing rocks and abseiling down using pieces of rope nailed to the rock. This was made more interesting as there were a lot of loose rocks which we were trying to get hand or foot holds with. "So this is why they made us sign our names on that piece of paper!", I told myself as I crawled along a passage with a gaping hole down to my right. It was at about this point where a couple in the group where feeling effects of being 1km into the mountain so we stopped, tasted the miners´95% proof alcohol that keeps them going, and discussed some of the culture and history surroundings the mine and its workers. Soon after we got to a place where a couple of miners nicknamed "the fleas" ( I should have asked but I didn´t) were piling bags of silver ore (in rock) into a wheelbarrow and taking it along the passage. They answered a couple of our questions in a "leave me alone I´m at work" vibe, but were obviously very deep and committed into their mining. There was a glisten of excitement in their eyes though as we handed over orange juice, cigarettes and coca leaves, which would probably get them though a day in there. After a couple of hours in there, we left having had an amazing experience of seeing a really raw working mine, and a lot more appreciative of our places of work / study!! We went back to the hostel to clean up and wash the zinc-ey, sludgey mess off of our faces and hands, regathered with Annie , who had rested well and was back on track, and got ready to take our night bus to the capital La Paz. Our last stop in Bolivia.

Sucre - Bolivia´s second capital - and the epic journey getting there

So I think the facebook status that I put up at the time adequately describes the terrible bus journey that we had to endure to get from Uyuni to Sucre at the end of the 4 day tour. Well, actually, I had to keep the complaining down becuase of word count allowances but you get the gist : "Chris Ellisdon is experiencing travel in true South American style and has just completed the worst bus journey in the world EVER! Huge man asleep on me, old man sitting on my feet, disco lighting along the ceiling, man snoring, 4 people standing sitting in the ailse, someone playing loud music on phone at 12am, dust coming in from window, hot with Bolivian man sweat and a crazy bus driver that likes beeping and rams the brakes".

I failed to mention the fact that someone was playing Old MacDonald on their phone for alot of the night and we had to make an unscheduled stop to move all our stuff into a taxi to drive with a maniac for the rest of the way who insisted on pumping out loud music through clapped out speakers and was obviously a hardened SEGA Rally driver. You have to laugh though - which is what Anni, Annie and I did for a lot of the way. Could have been worse - we spoke to someone afterwards who had been on a similar bus, but where the headlights had failed, the bus driver had a man shining a torch through the front windows to show the way.... AT NIGHT, ON A MOUNTAINOUS INTER CITY BUS JOURNEY.

We made it to Sucre alive and found a hostel to stay early in the morning. The first thing we did is sleep having had very little on the epic journey. Once we had a few hours and had showered, we set out to see the city. We warmed to Sucre straight away. It is a much cleaner, picturesque and almost regal city, strewn with old colonial buildings with ceramic roofing and wooden balconies. There was a hustle and bustle about the town but with nice street salespeople, fruit and veg stands, and in a way that still gave it a relaxed feeling. The central Plaza is particularly beautiful with (as most do) an old cathedral and nice cafes and restaurants over looking the square. The square also has the House of independence looking onto it, the building in which the Bolivian declaration of Independence was signed and so containing a heap of memorabilia from that time. We decided to catch a "Dino tours bus" that leaves the plaza twice a day and goes up to the nearby Cretacious park up on the mountain (15 minute drive), which is the site of where limestone extractors came across a whole series of prehistoric dinosaur tracks, from huge long-necked sauropods to small raptor types,  running up the face of the mountain. The park, located on the neighbouring mountain, looks across to these and explains how they were made and has recreated a cretacious environment containing life sized models of all of these creatures. Some were pretty ugly actually, and somehow these South American species were slightly different to their North American cousins, a lot of whom we know through Hollywood. The park did provide a good view of the city also, showing just how nicely it sits on the mountain range. 

We treated ourselves to a nice nice out while in Sucre also - taking in some of the local bars and having a dance for the first time in ages. We went to a real local club and seemed to be the only foreigners in there bar one (he looked really foreign!) and had a dance to some proper latin american rhythyms, which was great to unwind to and mix in with the locals, even though our dance moves were a little crazier! So then, having stayed in Sucre for a couple of days, seen some lovely things and regathered ourselves, we took a cab to Potosi - the silver mining city of Bolivia with aapproximately 500 years of mining history.

The stunning beauty of Bolivia

Yeah, so ok, I have obviously been a bit lax with the blog for a while, but thought I would give the low down on Bolivia. I think Bolivia is one of those places that is seldom visited as a one off, but more for the travellers that are seeing the continent as we are dong at the moment. This, I come to realise, is a real shame because despite the poverty that is evident as soon as you cross the border with Argentina, the country has an AMAZING landscape and lovely people who are warm and talkative. Annie and I crossed the border at Las Quiacas in Argentina aand walked across to a town called Villazon in Bolivia after getting though customs. We had a small problem after getting there, as we had to get up to a twon called Tupiza from where we would start the 4 day tour of the Salt Flats, mountains, geezers, coloured lagoons alll conatined in a national park of Bolivia. We had purposefully spent all of our Argentinian cash though, thinking we could take money out from a cash achine on the border. "Our survey says - eeeee-uuuuuurrrrr!!". The one cashpoint in town wasnt working. So amongst the hustle and bustle of early morning Villazon life (old tanned women with bowler hats and pigtails, people selling beaten fruit on the streets, all types of people trying to coax tourists into tours or taxi rides) we pulled together the remaining Chilean currency we had in our wallet aand changed this for Bolivianos. This was not enough to get the train as we had planned, so we re-thoughht tactics and went to get a Bolivian bus, which the Chilean covered us for. This was our first travel experience in South America that was a it more humbled and had us semi-worried about our bags in the hold, but the journey up took in some great scenery - mountains and cactus fields - and was comfortable enough and had us there in 2 hours without having to wait another 5 hours for the daily train. 

Once there, we got talking to 3 nice german tourists at the bus station, who were there for exactly the same reason as us, had some good recommendations on place to stay and tour operator and asked us to join them. This was great news so we hooked up with them straight away dropped our bags in the hostel, sorted out the 4 day tour and then went out for some food and drinks on an evening that had a heavy thunderstorm, which we hoped would die down. It did.

The next day we left early for the trip. Pictures and words cannot really do justice to the things we saw over these days (pictures on facebook!). The trip took us high high up into the Bolivian mountains (up to 5100 metres at our highest) and we slpet in small hostel places en-route each night. The altitude and lack of light pollution (coupled with the clear nights) meant that we were given a spectacular view of the stars every night. Millions and millions of them everywhere you looked, and you could see the dust of the nebulae and galaxy bending across the sky. Unbelievable. I even got to see two shooting stars in one night, when I had chosen to go out for a quiet walk late one night with my powerful head torch strapped to my head like a modern miner.

And the scenery and wildlife! Thousands and thousands of pink flamingoes feeding on the algae and shrimp of the coulourful lagoons way up at 4000 metres, amazing views onto the valleys below, hot sulphuric geezers that made the different coloured mud bubble in round pockets and fire egg smelling fumes into the air, stange formations of rocks, and a whole HEAP of llamas and alpacas that roamed around for vegetation from natural springs and lakes. But the highlight was the Salt Flats of Uyuni. A prehistoric salt lake from 300 million years ago that covered up to a 3rd of Bolivias surface area and has since evaporated, leaving behind a vast expanse of kilometres and kilometres of nothing but flat plains of white salt that blinds the eyes with the suns refections unles you are wearing sunglasses. One of the coolest and most surreal places I have ever been to. It´s like the scene in "The Matrix" (for those that have seen it) when they enter the system´s simulation and call for guns. Very cool. And because of the landscape, you can take loads and loads of perspective pictures whereby those in the background look like tiny little people! (again, see faceboook).

We had a guide and cook for the 4 days, taking the 5 of us across that part of the country in a jeep, prepared our meals and gave us information. The 5 of us became good friends over the time and I was given the name "ninja" for being the only one who did not suffer from any altitude sickness or otherwise, which had hit all of the others quite hard at different points. So I did not chew the coca leaves like others as I hadnt felt the need to. I did drink some however in some "Mate" which was prepared for us in the evenings. 

So the trip was an amazing start to the Bolivian experience. We left Dmitri and Elena before and after the tour was over (Dmitri had to leave the tour early due to the extent of altitude sickness) but gained a new travel companion in Anni-Katrin, who decided to join us for the journey we were making further into Bolivia and beyond. Our next stop from Uyuni (where the tour ended) would be the old Bolivian capital of Sucre, and then to Potosi and La Paz before heading into Peru. The first part would have us face an epic bus journey that was so rubbish that it became comical - but at least we got to travel true Bolivan style!! This to comein the next update!

Mendoza, Santiago (Chile) and up to Salta...

So Mendoza. Mendoza, Mendoza.... It´s a great city. I warmed to it much quicker than I did to Cordoba actually. It has a lovely laid back atmosphere with a huge park that everyone seems to go to for their sporting fixes - roller blading, football and jogging. There is a huge lake that people sit around for drinks and stroll around the rose gardens on the south side. The city was demolished in 18ahembrrruhaaa by an earthquake that devastated everything, and so the design of the city is reasonably space with a huge central plaza and 4 smaller ones symetrically placed around it. Not long after arrival, we went on an excursion of the wine rowing regions around Mendoza. This took us on a bike ride that allowed us to go and visit a number of wineries in the region and see their plantations and taste the goods. tastings varied though from wine to olive oils, chocolate and even absinthe produced on site. The hot day went on and the cycling started swaying a little and then we made it back to the hostel to rest with our new Danish friends in our dorm. 


We took the second day there as a time out to rest and re-gather ourselves for how we were going to tackle the next few legs of the journey. This included posting letters, talking to banks, booking the flight to Colombia, and just chilling and getting to know the city. The next day however, we took an excursion to "the highest mountain outside of Asia", also known as Aconcagua, part of the Andes mountain range. We got to have a walk arounf the national park that overlooks the mountain, the initial trek routes of San Martin who revolted against the Spanish during colonial times, and to the Puente del Inca - a natural arch that forms a bridge over the Mendoza river and a natural hot spring where visitors used to bath and stay. 


The next part of our trip took us over to Santiago, Chile - a journey to be remembered...or forgotten, whichever way you look at it. It wasnt too bad a journey over the mountains to be honest - pitch back with good reclining chairs....but i found myself at 2am staring at this hut from the top deck of the bus, three buses in front of us going through customs, two stinky travellers to my left that wreaked havoc with my sinus (seriously), the ipod had run out of juice, and the man behind me was snorring so hard that I was essentially being sucked in and blown out again on every half breath. But, after having everyting checked for fresh food, we made it in and got to see Santiago, a busy city with lots of life and people going about their working day around the central plazas. One of our primary aims was to get a new camera - we had been told they were cheaper there and both needed one so went searching the city. On the recommedation of a friend, we made our way to Parque Arauco in the north east side of the city, a big shopping mall that covered most desires. Success. We got one. After another tour of the city and a good nights sleep, we made our way back to Mendoza (Arg - 7hrs) which took us on an amazing scenic route up and through the mountains back into Argentina. 


From there (after spending a few hours walking and having lunch), we took a bus that brought us up here, to Salta, a lovely city in the north of Argentina and approaching the frontier with Bolivia. Again, the city is dotted with old colonial churches, monastries and squares, but with their own modern touch. You can start to see the change in demographic of the people and the slight change in accent when speaking to people. The city is surrounded by a range of mountains, which we took a fenicular up to today to look down on the city and it´s layout. Tonight we head for the Bolivian border. Destination is a town called Villazon on the Bolivian side of the border, and from there up into Tupiza to sort out the tour of Bolivias great salt flats in Uyuni and the lakes further south. Things get a bit cheaper here, but equally as spectacular. I can´t wait!   :)

Bathed in Iguassu Falls and mving into Central Argentina

Well I hadn't expected that the Argentinian side of Iguassu could have outdone the Brazilian side but I think it just about pips it to the post.The Brazilian side provides and awesome panoramic of the falls in al of their glory and then takes you in towards the base of the Garganta del Diablo or Devil's Throat. However, over on the Argentinian side you get to walk acrossthe top of all of the falls and come within touching distance (certainly within heavy spray distance) and you even get the oportunity to get in a raft and go directly underneath one ofthe falls / which I of course took with both hands. We took the trip out and went directly under the "3 Musketeers" fall for a heavy and fresh wash which was a relief from some of the heat. The falls all had me in complete awe, such an unbelievable volume of water cascading and suporting all sorts of wild and interesting creatures round - from the colourful spiders (which i wasn't too hot on!) to the capuchin monkeys following us in the tress and the countless colouful butterflies hovering in the air like suspended confetti! A-mazing.

The nextday cmae our epic 21 hour cama-bus journey from Iguassu to Cordoba in central Argentina. The bus journey was not nearas bad as it sounds. It was comfortable, we caught up on diary writing, had a chat, read, ipodded and watched some really bad films! Cordoba was worth the effort. Argentina's second largest city, it is covered in lovely old colonial spanish churches (as therewas a high jesuit community here a couple of hundred years ago) and a vibrant set of bustlng streets and shops. 

Yesterday, we went on a day excursion to see Che Guevara's childhood house in La Alta, which takes you up into the mountain range overlooking a wide valley that has had lots of artificial lakes created in it. Having learnt a bit about Che, we went to a pedestrian town up in the mountains called La Cumbresita. Very cute and containing a number of wood log cabins in germanic style (for some reason) but very nice. After climbing rocks to get high up to a waterfall and spending some time with other travellers from Peru (quite productive) and Canada, we headed back to the hostel to rest! Now for Mendoza.We leave tonight.

Football, buses and waterfalls

Quite a fun couple days! I would hope so otherwise this would be pointless. Annie and I jumped on the ferry back from Uruguay on Sunday in a big rush to make it back on time for the Boca juniors football game that we had booked. We were due to be picked up from the hostel at 4pm and had been told (categorically and after numerous questions) that the ferry would arrive somewhere between 15:00-15:30. We are sat there on the ferry and at about 15:20 I start to worry. Buenos Aires is back on the horizon but is a good 20 minutes away. "nevermind, we can get a cab", I thought. 40 minutes later the ferry pulls in. Annie and are in in rush rush mode at this point. We are already late and have to get our bags and back to the hostel on time. After a lot of rushing with big backpacks and panicked cab flagging, we sat in traffic about  2 minutes from our hostel. the time is 16:31. We had given up by this point and submitted to having to call a cab and catch them up. "If only I could go back in time" I thought. And then I realised it. We HAD gone back in time as Argentina are an hour behind! I confirmed this with the cab driver and high fived Annie. Issue over. 


The football was amazing. Such a spectacular compared to in the UK. There was dancing, fireworks, thumping, and chanting. Us foreigners out in as much as we could and I started to pick up some of the chants and sing along. The best one was "Come on, come on, Maradona wants you to win!". Haha! Yes he does! It was a good result for Boca Who finished Arsenal 2 - 1. 


Yesterday was a bank holiday in Argentina, so we decided to do what the locals were doing and headed up to the Palermo region for a day in the park and the zoo with our new found friend ´Dev´from London. Very relaxing. However, Annie and I then had a trek through torrential rain going to retiro station for a bus to iguassu (16 hours!!). Having soaked ourselves through we sat down and relaxed and watched the in-flight movie. A romcom with hugh grant. Nice (!). 


We arrived today at 11:30 after a reasonable trip, and two hours later (having washed etc) went on a half day excursion around the Brazilian side of the Iguassu falls. OMG - how spectacular! As soon as I saw them I fored up inside and got really trigger happy with the holiday snaps. the walkway took tourists along a huge stretch opposite the falls and it just got better and better, culminating with a walkway across the falls themselves where you get soaked to hell by all of the water spray! COMPLETELY worth it! ;)  It´s one of those things where nature demands the utmost respect for being so powerful. Nearly as powerful as me. Tomorrow is the Argentine side of the falls which is supposed to be even better, but it´s going to take some beating!


Oh PS - lots of spiders and lizards. Hmmm....

Montevideo

So we´ve done Montevideo and leave the country by ferry at 13:01 today. First impressions - it´s definitely a poorer city that Buenos Aires is. I knew that but you can really see and feel it. Somehow yesterday when we were walking round and getting to know it, there were no cars on the streets anywhere. I was like a ghost town. Not quite sure why, but it gave a funny feeling especially when walking around the old colonial style buildings in the old town- many of which are derelict or rundown. 

Due a problem with bookings, we ended up sleeping in a dorm of 8 last night. 6 other smelly and farty men. :) No it wasnt that bad! I slept through like a log and so did Annie. And we were allocated top bunks! Flash back to my childhood! It´s not as comfortable doing things that way but meant that we only paid 8 pounds for the night. 

Now we are ready to head back to Buenos Aires.  We have a Boca Juniors football match to go to later, which is going to be amazing.  Things really heat up in matches over here and I can´t wait to feel the cauldron of emotion,  frustration and passion erupt. Then, off to Iguassu Falls tomorrow. Cool.